I promised this tutorial months ago when I did my first pattern sew-along (remember the wool bias skirt?) and here it finally is! I’ve been wanting to make a light-weight knit lounge sack for Linus so he has some cozy but not too hot jammies. He’s crawling so we can’t do a sleep sack anymore, and a lounge sack is the next best thing!
I used Nordic Diamond again, one of the knits in the new Patty Young collection for Michael Miller. I love the green so much, it matches the Michael Miller crib bedding/decor in Linus’s room perfectly (the Lagoon colorway collection).
Project: Infant/Toddler/Child Lounge Sack
MATERIALS
- McCalls M6427 pattern
- interlock knit fabric (see pattern envelope for yardage)
- jersey knit fabric (see pattern envelope for yardage)
- iron-on adhesive tape (Heat’N Bond, etc.)
- printer paper
- Variform Ruler (optional)
- ballpoint needle (size 70-90)
- 1 zipper
- machine walking foot
**Sew all seams at 5/8″ unless otherwise instructed
1. I had to alter the pattern before I got started – I shortened the pattern 3″.
Shortening/lengthening a pattern is easy – find the “lengthen/shorten” line, cut along it, and either add or take away the determined length. Tape the pattern back together and blend the cutting lines together.
I use a Variform ruler to help me blend the lines together. Curved rulers are very handy, if you don’t have one, JoAnn sells them and I recommend adding it to your supply collection.
2. Pin the pattern to the fabric, matching selvage edges. Position the pattern so that the grainline is parallel to the selvage edge. Knit fabric is tricky because the edges curl, pressing the fabric first would have been ideal but I was in a hurry to get this baby finished!
3. Cut out all pattern pieces.
4. Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric – I use carbon paper and a tracing wheel and then trace the markings with a water erasable fabric marker so I can see them clearly.
5. Pin the two front pieces, right sides together, and sew the center front seam from the crotch up to the large dot from the pattern. Back stitch at both ends. Use a walking foot and don’t stretch as you sew!
6. Sew back piece to the two front pieces at shoulder seams.
7. Press each seam open as you sew it.
8. Pin and sew the neckline under 1/4″ and then another 1/4″ for a narrow hem. Sew right along the hem edge.
9. Using a large basting stitch, baste the center front seam from the large circle at the bottom to the circle at the top and press open.
10. Apply an iron-on adhesive tape (1/4″ – 1/2″ is best so the zipper completely covers it up) on either side of the seam line from the top all the way to the bottom edges of the fabric.
11. Remove the paper backing and position the zipper face down so that the zipper teeth are right on top of the seam line, the top of the zipper (the pull part) is right on top of the circle at the top, to below the large circle where you began basting.
12. Press the zipper to the seam so the adhesive tape will hold it in place. My tape was 5/8″ wide so I used a piece of paper to prevent the adhesive from gunking up my iron. Using paper is a good idea even if you’re using narrow tape, just in case.
Be sure not to iron the zipper teeth – they will melt!
13. Switch to a zipper foot and sew the zipper in place (using a 2mm stitch length again). Sew with the fabric right side up. Place a piece of printer paper just next to the seam (where the zipper teeth should be) and sew along the edge of the paper.
The knit fabric is very stretch and the polyester zipper is not, and using iron-on adhesive tape and a piece of paper is the best way I’ve found to stabilize the fabric and prevent stretching.
14. Tear the paper away from the seam.
15. Press on either side of the zipper. Don’t iron on top of the zipper teeth!
16. Sew along the bottom edge of the zipper to secure.
17. Match up the notches on the sleeve and the body portion of the sack. Sew with right sides together (to do this you put the sleeve inside the body portion).
Sleeves are tricky. Pin a lot and go slow. You can do it!
This is what it should look like after sewing the sleeve to the shoulder.
18. Sew the under sleeve seam and then the side seam.
19. Press seams open.
20. Sew the crotch seam and reinforce it with a second line of stitching 1/8″ inside the standard seam line.
21. Pin the leg and arm cuff pieces together so that the notches along the long edges match up.
22. Sew those seams and press open.
23. With the cuff right side out, fold it in half so the seams are touching, wrong sides together.
24. Flip so that the cuff is folded in half the short way, wrong sides together, with notches lined up.
25. Slip the sleeve inside the cuff, pin all the way around, and sew, stretching as you go. The cuff is much smaller in circumference than the sleeve, so you have to stretch to make it work.
26. Press all seams back or down, snip threads, press anything that needs pressing.
And this baby is ready to lounge! But all he really wants to do is crawl – Daddy, LET ME GO!
These lounge sacks are so comfy, warm, and will fit forever. There’s plenty of length build in so the sack can grow with the child for a while. I love the Oompa-Loompa look!
Happy lounging!
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